Budget · 6-hour walk · Rome
Monti and the Esquiline in six hours
Trajan's market, the village streets of Monti, Michelangelo's Moses, two churches of mosaic and the Roman baths that Michelangelo turned into a church.
Monti was the Suburra, ancient Rome's crowded and disreputable slum at the foot of the hills where the rich lived. Today it is the most village-like quarter of the centre, with its own square and fountain and some of the best small shops in Rome. This route climbs from the Imperial forums through Monti to the Esquiline, whose churches hold some of the finest mosaics in the city, and ends at the baths of Diocletian.
The route, stop by stop
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Trajan's Market
A curving brick complex of shops and offices built into the hillside around 110 AD, often called the world's oldest shopping centre. It houses the Museum of the Imperial Forums.
60 min here Walk here → -
Piazza della Madonna dei Monti
The neighbourhood's living room, around a 16th-century fountain. The streets off it, Via del Boschetto and Via Urbana, are full of small shops and places for lunch.
45 min here Walk here → -
San Pietro in Vincoli
The chains said to have bound St Peter are kept under the altar, but people come for Michelangelo's Moses, carved for the tomb of Pope Julius II.
20 min here Walk here → -
Santa Prassede
A side chapel, the Chapel of St Zeno, is covered from floor to ceiling in 9th-century gold mosaic. Bring a coin for the light.
20 min here Walk here → -
Santa Maria Maggiore
One of Rome's four papal basilicas, with 5th-century mosaics along the nave and a coffered ceiling said to be gilded with the first gold brought from the Americas. Pope Francis is buried here.
30 min here Walk here → -
Santa Maria degli Angeli
Michelangelo turned the great hall of the Baths of Diocletian into a church in the 1560s. The brass meridian line set into its floor in 1702 told Rome when it was noon.
25 min here Walk here → -
Palazzo Massimo
Part of the National Roman Museum. Upstairs is the painted garden room from the villa of Livia, the wife of Augustus: a whole room of birds and fruit trees.
70 min here Walk here →
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