Mid-range · 3-hour walk · Paris
The covered passages in three hours
Six glass-roofed arcades of the 1800s, from the Palais-Royal to the Grands Boulevards, with their bookshops, toy shops and old cafés.
Before Haussmann gave Paris its boulevards, its streets were narrow and muddy and had no pavements, so the city shopped under cover instead. More than a hundred glass-roofed passages were built in the first half of the 19th century, and a couple of dozen survive. This route links the best of them in a line north from the Palais-Royal to the Grands Boulevards, mostly indoors, which makes it the route for a rainy day. Most passages close in the evening, and some on Sundays.
The route, stop by stop
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Galerie Véro-Dodat
Opened in 1826 by two pork butchers, Véro and Dodat, with a floor of diagonal black and white tiles that makes the short passage look longer than it is.
15 min here Walk here → -
Galerie Vivienne
The most elegant of the passages, opened in 1823, with mosaic floors and a glass roof over a rotunda. Legrand Filles et Fils sells wine at its far end.
25 min here Walk here → -
Passage Choiseul
A long, plainer passage of 1829, where the novelist Louis-Ferdinand Céline grew up above his mother's lace shop.
15 min here Walk here → -
Passage des Panoramas
One of the oldest, from 1799, named after two panorama rotundas that stood at its entrance. Stamp dealers, engravers and some of the best small restaurants in the area.
25 min here Walk here → -
Passage Jouffroy
Across the boulevard, a passage of iron and glass from the 1840s, heated from under its floor. The Musée Grévin's waxworks open onto it, and so does a shop of dolls' houses.
20 min here Walk here → -
Passage Verdeau
The quietest of the three in a row, with old cameras, postcards and secondhand books under a herringbone glass roof.
15 min here Walk here →
More walks in Paris
Pont Neuf · Sainte-Chapelle · Notre-Dame de Paris · Shakespeare and Company · Panthéon · Jardin du Luxembourg
Moulin Rouge · Le Mur des je t'aime · Le Bateau-Lavoir · Place du Tertre · Sacré-Cœur · La Maison Rose · Musée de Montmartre
Canal Saint-Martin · Hôpital Saint-Louis · Rue Sainte-Marthe · Rue Dénoyez · Parc de Belleville
Trocadéro · Eiffel Tower · Champ de Mars · Les Invalides · Musée Rodin · Le Bon Marché · Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Louvre Museum · Jardin du Palais-Royal · Galerie Vivienne · Place Vendôme · Palais Garnier · Galeries Lafayette rooftop
Place des Vosges · Musée Carnavalet · Rue des Rosiers · Musée Picasso Paris · Père Lachaise Cemetery
Notre-Dame Cathedral · Sainte-Chapelle · Louvre Museum · Jardin des Tuileries · Musée d'Orsay · Musée Rodin · Eiffel Tower · Trocadéro · Arc de Triomphe
Palace of Versailles · Grand Canal · Petit Trianon · Queen's Hamlet · Saint-Germain-des-Prés · Pont des Arts · Seine river cruise
More in Paris
Every walking route in Paris, the full Paris guide for where to stay and what a day costs, or walks in other cities.