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Mid-range · 3-hour walk · Paris

The covered passages in three hours

Six glass-roofed arcades of the 1800s, from the Palais-Royal to the Grands Boulevards, with their bookshops, toy shops and old cafés.

On foot
1.6 km
Walking
22 min
At stops
115 min
Total
2h 17m
Stops
6

Before Haussmann gave Paris its boulevards, its streets were narrow and muddy and had no pavements, so the city shopped under cover instead. More than a hundred glass-roofed passages were built in the first half of the 19th century, and a couple of dozen survive. This route links the best of them in a line north from the Palais-Royal to the Grands Boulevards, mostly indoors, which makes it the route for a rainy day. Most passages close in the evening, and some on Sundays.

  1. Galerie Véro-Dodat

    Opened in 1826 by two pork butchers, Véro and Dodat, with a floor of diagonal black and white tiles that makes the short passage look longer than it is.

    15 min here Walk here →
  2. Galerie Vivienne

    The most elegant of the passages, opened in 1823, with mosaic floors and a glass roof over a rotunda. Legrand Filles et Fils sells wine at its far end.

    25 min here Walk here →
  3. Passage Choiseul

    A long, plainer passage of 1829, where the novelist Louis-Ferdinand Céline grew up above his mother's lace shop.

    15 min here Walk here →
  4. Passage des Panoramas

    One of the oldest, from 1799, named after two panorama rotundas that stood at its entrance. Stamp dealers, engravers and some of the best small restaurants in the area.

    25 min here Walk here →
  5. Passage Jouffroy

    Across the boulevard, a passage of iron and glass from the 1840s, heated from under its floor. The Musée Grévin's waxworks open onto it, and so does a shop of dolls' houses.

    20 min here Walk here →
  6. Passage Verdeau

    The quietest of the three in a row, with old cameras, postcards and secondhand books under a herringbone glass roof.

    15 min here Walk here →
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