Where to stay in Munich

The former bohemian quarter north of the museum district: the English Garden (Englischer Garten) - larger than Central Park, with beer gardens, nude sunbathing meadows, and the artificial Eisbach wave where surfers ride a standing wave in the middle of a city park (year-round, free to watch). The Chinesischer Turm beer garden (the second largest in Munich, 7,000 seats, excellent and relatively affordable). Schwabing has the most affordable restaurants and the most genuine Munich street life.

The creative southern quarter: Munich's most progressive neighborhood, with natural wine bars, independent coffee shops, and excellent restaurants at prices below the tourist centre. The Isar River banks south of the old city are a free urban beach in summer - Munichers swim in the river, barbecue on the banks, and sunbathe on the gravel. The Mullersches Volksbad (a Art Nouveau public swimming pool, €6 entry) is one of the finest historic baths in Europe.

The old city centre: Marienplatz is the main square with the Neues Rathaus Glockenspiel (the mechanical clock carillon that performs at 11am and noon - free, very touristy but genuinely impressive at 85 bells). The Frauenkirche (the twin-domed cathedral, free) and the Viktualienmarkt (the outdoor food market, open daily - the best place for Bavarian sausages and bread for breakfast) are both here. The Hofbrauhaus (the most famous beer hall in the world, since 1589) is 2 minutes from Marienplatz - expensive and tourist-heavy, but you should go once.

The museum district: the Pinakotheken (three world-class art museums in 5 minutes of each other - Alte Pinakothek for Old Masters €8, Neue Pinakothek for 19th century €8, Pinakothek der Moderne for contemporary art and design €12). Sunday entry is €1 at all three. The Deutsches Museum (the world's largest science and technology museum, €15 - submarines, planes, musical instruments, chemistry lab where benzene was discovered). The Ludwig Maximilian University neighborhood has the best cafes and the lowest prices in central Munich.

The neighborhood east of the Isar: the French Quarter (Franzosisches Viertel) named after the street names, with good neighborhood restaurants and bars that serve locals rather than tourists. The Maximilianeum (the Bavarian state parliament, tours available) on the Maximiliansstrasse connects to Marienplatz across the river. The Gasteig cultural centre is here.

The western royal district: Nymphenburg Palace (€15 - the Wittelsbach summer palace, a 2km-wide baroque complex with canals, gardens, and the Amalienburg hunting lodge inside the grounds - one of the finest rococo interiors in Europe). The Nymphenburg porcelain manufactory is adjacent. The neighborhood is Munich's most prosperous, with excellent restaurants on Nymphenburger Strasse and the Olympic Park (free, the 1972 Olympic site with a tower view at €9).