Where to stay in Marrakech

The working souk district north of Djemaa el-Fna: the tanneries where leather has been prepared the same way since the 11th century (view from tannery rooftops, MAD 20 tip for a sprig of mint to hold against the smell), the dyers' souk where wool is hung in jewel colors to dry, the blacksmiths and woodworkers. The most photographed moment in Marrakech is the wool hanging in the dyers' souk — worth hunting for.

Adjacent to the Royal Palace, the Mellah is Marrakech's former Jewish quarter — one of the oldest in Morocco. The Lazama Synagogue (MAD 10) is still active. The cemetery is overgrown and beautiful. The Mellah market has the best fresh produce in Marrakech and almost no tourists. The gates to the Royal Palace are here; the palaces themselves are not open to visitors.

The most extraordinary public square on earth: Djemaa el-Fna by day has acrobats, snake charmers, monkey handlers, and orange juice stands (MAD 4). By night it transforms into the world's greatest outdoor restaurant — 100 food stalls lit by lanterns, smoke rising into the night sky, storytellers and musicians performing for mixed crowds of Moroccans and visitors. UNESCO declared it an Intangible Cultural Heritage. The surrounding souks — copper, leather, spices, fabrics — extend for 1km in every direction.

The French-built Ville Nouvelle west of the medina: wide boulevards, Art Deco buildings, independent galleries, and the best European-style cafés in the city (Café du Livre, Café Terrasse). The Majorelle Garden is in Gueliz — the most visited site in Morocco. More relaxed than the medina; less extraordinary. A mental health reset after the sensory intensity of the souks.

The residential heart of the medina: anonymous alley doors that open into exquisite courtyard palaces (riads). The most beautiful boutique hotels in Morocco are concentrated here — La Mamounia (from MAD 5,000/night, Churchill slept here), Dar Les Cigognes, Riad Kniza. The streets are entirely quiet; the sound of fountains and birds replaces traffic. The contrast between the external chaos and the internal stillness is Marrakech's greatest pleasure.

The 13,000-acre palm grove north of the medina — once agricultural, now studded with luxury riad-villas and golf resorts. The Four Seasons and Mandarin Oriental are here. The Palmeraie is where you go to recover from Marrakech in a private pool with Atlas views. Hot air balloon flights over the palm grove and medina depart from here at sunrise.