Where to stay in Seville

Across the Guadalquivir River from the historic centre: the birthplace of flamenco, the neighborhood where the great cantaores grew up, and the source of the azulejo ceramic tradition that covers every bench and building in Andalusia. The Calle Betis riverside strip has the most Sevillano bars in the city - long lunches, cold fino, and the cathedral visible across the water. The Mercado de Triana has the best fresh produce in Seville.

The working-class northern neighborhood: the Basilica of La Macarena (home to the most venerated Virgin in Seville - her float's exit during Semana Santa processions causes grown men to weep), the city walls and Roman ruins, and the best tapas bars in Seville at prices that haven't been adjusted for tourism. The neighborhood market and the long Alameda de Hercules pedestrian boulevard are the city's most local public spaces.

The medieval Jewish quarter adjacent to the Cathedral: narrow whitewashed lanes draped with orange trees (the fruit is inedible - the city uses them for marmalade and perfume), hidden plazas, and the best-preserved medieval street plan in Andalusia. The Alcazar (the royal palace) and the Cathedral (the largest Gothic cathedral in the world) are both at its edge. Tourist-heavy but genuinely beautiful - visit early morning before the tour groups arrive.

The commercial heart of Seville: the department stores and chain restaurants of Sierpes and Tetuan streets give way to the extraordinary Las Setas (the Metropol Parasol - the largest wooden structure in the world, a mushroom-shaped walkway over a Roman excavation). The Encarnacion market below it has excellent food. The rooftop walkway (€5) has the best view of the old city.

The former harbor district between the river and the historic center: the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza (the most beautiful bullring in Spain - the museum is open even if you oppose bullfighting), the Torre del Oro (the 13th-century watchtower, €3), and the Guadalquivir riverfront promenade. The neighborhood has some of Seville's best traditional tapas bars - La Brunilda and El Rinconcillo (founded 1670, the oldest bar in Seville).

The prosperous west-bank neighborhood where Seville's wealthy families live and where the April Fair (Feria de Abril) takes place every year - a week of casetas (private party tents), flamenco dancing, horses, and manzanilla sherry. During Feria week the neighborhood becomes Spain's most exuberant street party. The rest of the year it's quiet, with excellent restaurants and the Parque de los Principes for evening walks.