Where to stay in Seoul

The traditional culture district: Insadong is a pedestrian street of art galleries, antique shops, traditional tea houses (the sungnyung tea - scorched rice tea, W3,000 - is the authentic choice), and street food. The Ssamziegil courtyard market has the most interesting independent Korean crafts. Jongno beyond it has the Jogyesa Buddhist Temple (free - the main temple in Seoul, lanterns strung between ancient trees) and the Tapgol Park where the 1919 independence movement began.

The university arts district around Hongik University: the most creative neighborhood in Seoul, with indie music venues, street performers (busking is competitive and genuinely excellent here), pop-up art installations, and the densest concentration of cafes and restaurants in the city. The Gyeongui Line Forest Park (a converted railway line, free) runs through the neighborhood. Nightlife starts at midnight and continues until 6am - the clubs on Club Street are some of the best in Asia.

The historic northern core: Gyeongbokgung Palace (W3,000 - the main Joseon Dynasty palace, built 1395, destroyed by the Japanese, rebuilt; the Changing of the Guard ceremony at 10am and 2pm is free and extraordinary). The Bukchon Hanok Village spreads up the hillside behind the palace - 600-year-old traditional Korean houses (hanok) still inhabited, narrow stone lanes, and the best view of the palace and Namsan Tower. The National Museum of Korea and the National Folk Museum are both here (free).

The shopping and street food district: Myeongdong is Seoul's most commercially dense neighborhood - K-beauty flagship stores (Innisfree, Laneige, Etude House, all selling products unavailable overseas at 30-50% below duty-free prices), street food vendors (hotteok - sweet pancakes, tteokbokki - spicy rice cakes, tornado potato on a stick), and the명동 Cathedral (the oldest Catholic cathedral in Korea). Namdaemun Market nearby is the largest traditional market in Korea - open 24 hours.

The international district: historically the neighborhood around the US military base, Itaewon has the most diverse food scene in Seoul (halal restaurants, Indian, Ethiopian, German, Mexican) and the most English-friendly bars. Hannam-dong to the east is now Seoul's most upscale neighborhood - the Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (W20,000 - the finest private art collection in Korea, Mario Botta building), concept stores, and the restaurants where Korean celebrities eat. The antique market on Itaewon-ro has the best vintage furniture in Seoul.

The prosperous southern district: Gangnam (the "Gangnam Style" neighborhood) has the most expensive real estate in Korea, the highest concentration of plastic surgery clinics in the world, and the K-pop entertainment company headquarters (SM, YG, HYBE - BTS's label). COEX Mall (the largest underground shopping mall in Asia) and COEX Starfield Library (free - a vast reading room inside the mall, wall-to-wall books and a photogenic interior). Apgujeong Rodeo Street has the Korean luxury fashion scene. The Han River park is 10 minutes walk.