Where to stay in Rio de Janeiro

The world's most famous beach boulevard: 4km of beach backed by a mosaic-pattern promenade, high-rise hotels, and a neighborhood that never sleeps. More touristy and less fashionable than Ipanema, but more affordable and more alive at night. The beach at 6am with locals exercising is Rio at its most genuine. The Forte de Copacabana at the southern end (R$12) has the best view of the full beach arc. The bohemian kiosks along the beachfront are cheaper than Ipanema.

The hillside neighborhood above the Centro: reached by the bonde (tram, R$25 - the last traditional tram in Rio, running through narrow streets between colonial mansions) or by Uber. Santa Teresa was the artist neighborhood of Rio for a century - the Museu Chacara do Ceu (R$10, Tue-Sun, the finest private art collection in Rio: Picasso, Matisse, Portinari), the Escadaria Selaron (the ceramic-mosaic staircase by Chilean artist Jorge Selaron, free), and the outdoor bars on Largo do Guimaraes. The neighborhood is hilly, beautiful, and increasingly touristic but retains genuine character.

The entertainment district: the Arcos da Lapa (the 18th-century aqueduct arches, now supporting the Santa Teresa tram) are the symbol of the neighborhood. Friday and Saturday nights, the streets around the arches become an open-air samba party - hundreds of botequins (informal bars) spill onto the pavement, samba bands play at every corner, and the dancing continues until dawn. The Centro (historic downtown) has excellent free museums - the Real Gabinete Portugues de Leitura (the most beautiful library in Brazil, free) and the Museu Historico Nacional (R$10).

The most famous beach neighborhood in Brazil: Ipanema Beach (the "Girl from Ipanema" beach, free) is 3km of white sand divided into informal zones by posto (lifeguard station) number - Posto 9 is the young, fashionable, and LGBTQ+-friendly section, Posto 10 is the family zone. The beachside kiosks serve cold Antarcticas (beer) and caipirinhas. Rua Vinicius de Moraes and Garcia D'Avila have excellent restaurants and bars. Leblon to the west is quieter and more expensive. The sunset at Arpoador rock (free) between Ipanema and Copacabana is Rio's finest daily ceremony.

The modern western zone: the largest beach in Rio (Praia da Barra, 18km, much less crowded than Ipanema or Copacabana), the BarraShopping mall (the largest in Latin America), and the Museu do Amanha (Museum of Tomorrow, R$30 - Santiago Calatrava's futuristic science museum on the port waterfront). The 2016 Olympic Park is here (open for visits). Barra is more spread out and requires Uber - but the accommodation is cheaper and the beaches are better.

The green neighborhood between Ipanema and the mountains: the Jardim Botanico (Botanical Garden, R$20 - 350 hectares of Atlantic Forest in the city, 6,500 species, the imperial palms planted in 1809 at Napoleon's request). The Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas is a saltwater lagoon ringed by a 7.2km running and cycling path (free, equipment rental on the lakeside), surrounded by restaurants. The Christ the Redeemer is visible from the lakeside at all times. The neighborhood has Rio's most expensive real estate and best restaurants.