Where to stay in Lyon

The plateau and slopes north of the Presqu'île, where the canuts wove silk. A morning market on the boulevard, small bars and traboules; the slopes are steep.

Across the Rhône from the centre: North African and Asian grocers, cheap restaurants and student bars. Good-value hostels, though some streets are rough late at night.

The old town on the right bank of the Saône below Fourvière: Saint-Jean, Saint-Georges and Saint-Paul. Central, with the funiculars at the door; busy by day and touristy along Rue Saint-Jean.

The former docks at the tip of the Presqu'île, rebuilt with coloured office blocks, a shopping centre and the Musée des Confluences. Modern hotels and riverside walks; quiet at night.

The peninsula between the rivers, from Perrache to the Terreaux: Bellecour, the opera, the Hôtel-Dieu and the best shopping. The most central place to stay, with grand hotels and the metro on every corner.

The 6th arrondissement's 19th-century avenues beside the Parc de la Tête d'Or, home to several of the city's starred restaurants. Quiet and smart, a metro ride from the old town.