Where to stay in Granada

The hillside of cave houses above the Darro, home of Granada's gitano community and its zambra flamenco. Cheap cave rooms and shows every night.

Below the Alhambra hill to the south: the bars of the Campo del Príncipe, murals by El Niño de las Pinturas and good-value guesthouses.

The old Moorish town on the hill facing the Alhambra: whitewashed lanes, walled garden-houses called carmenes and the viewpoints. Steep and mostly car-free, with boutique hotels in old houses.

The flat centre around the cathedral, the Alcaicería and Plaza Bib-Rambla, with the tapas bars of Calle Navas and Calle Elvira close by.

The wooded hill of the Alhambra and the Antequeruela: the Parador inside the walls, the Alhambra Palace hotel and silence once the day visitors have gone.